Sunday, March 8, 2015

R&R 2014, Part 2: London the First

Last time, I regaled you with tales of all of the theatre productions we saw while visiting London for R&R back in August/September.  This time, we will be discussing London itself.

We arrived in London on the afternoon of August 29th in much the same fashion as I had during my two layovers while traveling to and from Comic Con in July:  Namely, our friend Anwarul was
waiting at the airport to play the role of host, travel buddy, dining companion, vacation planner, and tour guide.

When planning this two week vacation, TJ and I opted to stay in a London-based hotel during the first week, when our focus would be on absorbing the sights, sounds, and flavors of London.  We found a place that was located within five minutes walking distance of two different train lines, ensuring that we had quick and easy access to anywhere in the city.  

During the second week, we used Anwarul's home in neighboring Henley-on-Thames as our base of operation for traveling to various other places both near and far.   Today, though, is all about London.

All told, we spent seven days and eight nights in London.  This was a trip that I had been anticipating for 11 years;  I hold fond memories of my time in London during a summer 2001 study abroad trip, and had always wanted to recreate that magic with TJ.

I won't bore you with the play by play, but here are some of the most memorable highlights.

Westminster Abbey only received a drive-by nod from us, as the line was long and we had a tour scheduled at Parliament that made the timing tricky.  Instead, we opted for coffee and a brisk walk around the neighborhood, both of which were enjoyable.  The Abbey is one of the most notable religious buildings in the United Kingdom and has been the traditional place of coronation and burial for English and British monarchs.  The Abbey is that in name only; it has been a "Royal Peculiar" since 1560 - exempt from the jurisdiction of the diocese and instead subject to the direct jurisdiction of the monarch.



Sharing a courtyard with the Abbey is Saint Margaret's Cathedral, which we did enter due to the lack of line and entry fee.  The present building, consecrated in 1523, is the third on the site.  It has been the church of the House of Commons since 1614.  Raleigh is buried in the front altar, under the glorious window made for King Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon.  Other windows commemorate Caxton and Milton, who worshipped there.  Saint Margaret's Cathedral joined was inscribed onto the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1987, alongside Westminster Abbey and The Palace of Westminster/The Houses of Parliament.

The Palace of Westminster, located just across the street from Westminster Abbey, is home to the United Kingdom Parliament.  It has been a royal palace for some 1,000 years and home to Parliament for almost 500.  The palace was originally home to the Kings and Queens of England but, as Parliament evolved and grew in importance, the Palace transitioned into more of a meeting ground for politicians.  It became their official, permanent home in 1550.


Our tour began and ended in the 916 year old Westminster Hall, which was designed to host state occasions and to be a place for feasts and entertainment.  Work on the hall began during the reign of William Rufus, son of William the Conqueror, who desired a space that would impress and overawe.  It is one of the largest undivided medieval spaces in existence today.
Westminster Hall is one of only two structures that survived the fire of 1834 intact; all else had to be rebuilt over a 20 year period.  The hall has been used for many events during its long history.  Coronation banquets were held here from 1189-1821.  The trials of King Charles I and Guy Fawkes took place within these walls.  Today, the hall is used for great ceremonial events; Queen Elizabeth II, Nelson Mandela, and Barack Obama are but examples of those that have addressed Parliament under this roof in recent years.  It is customary for monarchs to lie in state here after their deaths.


It's a shame they don't have an interesting mosaic tile pattern on the floor or a Chihuly chandelier, because that was the only room in which photographs were allowed.

Other highlights of the tour (with Internet-swiped photos) include:
  • The House of Commons, where the democratically-elected Members of Parliament (MPs) meet to debate and make laws;
  • The House of Lords, where laws are scrutinized and challenged on behalf of all the people, not constituencies, in the UK.  Lords challenge the government to think harder about its legislation and policies;
  • St. Stephen's Hall, which stands on the site of St. Stephen's Chapel.  Destroyed by the fire of 1834, the Chapel was where monarchs and their families worshiped while staying at the Palace...though it was turned into a debating chamber for the House of Commons in 1550.  


Leaving the Houses of Parliament, we walked along the North Bank of the River Thames, casually admiring the sights, architecture, and various monuments that we passed along the way.  Here, we see TJ and Anwarul posing with the London Eye, a giant Ferris wheel that sits on the river's South Bank.  Also known as the Millennium Wheel, it is Europe's tallest Ferris wheel. It opened to the public on March 9, 2000.  I remember to this day, and with great disappointment, how I missed my opportunity to ride this popular attraction during my study abroad trip.  My group arrived just as they were closing for the evening, and no amount of self-entitled tourist pleading was going to keep them open a second longer than necessary.  I'm a working stiff now, too, so I'm right there with you, Ferris wheel operators of the world.  It had been my utmost hope that I could finally fulfill my 13-year wish on this trip...but alas it was not meant to be.  The timing just never worked out.  I have yet to lose the faith though; we are already discussing a Christmas trip to London sometime in the future.  As long as the line for this thing was, I'm sure it'll still be around.

St. Paul's Cathedral is an Anglican cathedral that sits atop Ludgate Hill, the highest point in the city of London.  Dedicated to the Apostle Paul, the cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of London and the mother church of the Diocese of London.  It is the second largest church building in the United Kingdom and was designed by Sir Christopher Wren in the 17th century, following the Great Fire of London in 1666.

Important services held at St. Pauls have included the funerals of Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, Sir Winston Churchill, and Margaret Thathcher, the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana and the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II.  Photography was not permitted inside (because why should beauty be shared?), so here is another Internet-swiped image.


Tower Bridge was built over 120 years ago to ease road traffic while maintaining river access to the busy Pool of London docks.  Built with giant moveable roadways that lift up for passing ships, it is to this day considered an engineering marvel and is arguably one of the most instantly recognizable structures in the entire world.

The attraction consists of a small museum, called the Tower Bridge Exhibition, that tells the history of the bridge and how/why it came into existence.  Visitors are able to visit the Victorian Engine Rooms, which house the steam engines that once powered the bridge lifts.

I've got to say, the bridge itself is gorgeous, but the fun stops there.  The exhibits aren't particularly fascinating.  I was expecting more artifacts, but the majority of the exhibit takes the form of print media and timelines of events, not all of which pertain to the bridge itself but rather greater London.  Your time is better served just stopping for a photo and moving on with your day.


The Tower of London, offically named Her Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress, is a historic castle located on the North bank of the River Thames.  It was founded towards the end of 1066 as part of the Norman Conquest of England.  A grand palace, it served as a royal residence in its earlier history.

The White Tower, which gives the castle its name, was built by William the Conqueror in 1078, and was resented by the citizenry as a symbol of oppression inflicted upon London by the ruing elite.

The castle was used as a prison from 1100 to 1952 though, despite its enduring reputation as a place of torture and death, only seven people were executed there before the World Wars. Despite this, there was a charming exhibition featuring various torture devices on display.

The Tower is an expansive complex featuring several buildings set within two concentric rings of defensive walls and a moat.  It was inscribed onto the list of Unesco World Heritage Sites in 1988.




The Tower has served as an armory, a treasury, a menagerie, the home of the Royal Mint, a public records office, and the home of the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom.  The jewels are on display in a vault, which you are able to visit but of course not photograph.  This time, I feel the policy makes sense; why give photographic tools to thieves-in-planning?  Though with a dragon this awesome guarding the place, I'm sure they have nothing to worry about.  This ferocious fella was part of a museum exhibit featuring various suits of armor through the ages.  One would then suppose that dragons did exist, and they had incredible fashion sense.

My favorite thing about the Tower was actually a temporary art exhibit located outside of the complex, in the moat.  Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red was an evolving art installation that sought to fill the moat with 888,246 hand-made ceramic poppies.  Each one represents a British military death during the First World War, which began in 1914.  The last poppy was scheduled to be planted on November 11, 2014, commemorating the war's end on the same day in 1918.  Guests were invited to purchase one of the poppies for £25, with 10% of the price, plus all net proceeds, going to one of six military service charities.

The exhibit has sense been dismantled, and poppies are on their way to their new homes.  I'm sad to say that we didn't take advantage of the opportunity, and I am now perusing eBay.

Join me next time as I recount our final London exploits and prepare to take our tale into other corners of the kingdom.

Thursday, March 5, 2015

R&R 2014, Part 1: West End Boys

Just as had been the case with our assignment in Guadalajara, Jerusalem came with a built-in option for Rest and Recuperation time...and it is an understatement to say that it was very appreciated in the aftermath of the summer war.

If you are are technical writer by trade, curious as to who qualifies for R&R, or just like opening links that you find in random blogs across the Interwebs, feel free to click here and learn more about R&R.    

For those assigned to Jerusalem, the designated R&R destination is either London or your home city of record (In our case, Orlando).  No surprise which we chose.

Shakespeare, Leicester
Square, The West End
TJ and I spent August 29 - September 14 exploring London, Edinburgh, and all sorts of places in between.  We ticked the box on a lot of historic sites, visited an amusement park, encountered friends new and old, ate some delicious food, imbibed a bit too much, and took in a show or two.  Okay, it was an even dozen.  And those shows are the focus of today's posting. 

Theatre is life.  It opens up a world of song, dance, and story that you just can't find on the television or silver screen.  Unless it's an adaptation, but then it's never the same.  TJ and I love theatre, and gobble it up whenever possible.  We've managed to find a few local productions here in Jerusalem, but none have had that sense of wonder one finds on Broadway or even in big-budget traveling shows.  It was in preparation for this drought that I planned our 2013 anniversary trip to New York.  We devoured theatre so eagerly then that I feel we spent more time seeing shows than we did seeing New York.  The same almost happened in London.  And it was worth (almost) every second.         
  
London's West End is the commercial and entertainment heart of the city.  Picture New York's Times Square and Broadway and you'll arrive at a close approximation.  It is here that we experienced all of the wonderment that is London theatre.

(For the sake of giving credit where credit is due, the "About the Show" sections are all taken from the shows' websites, as are the production photos.  The "My Review" sections as well as the exterior shots are mine.)

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Theatre Royal Drury Lane

About the Show:  
Roald Dahl’s deliciously dark tale of young Charlie Bucket and the mysterious confectioner Willy Wonka comes to life in a brand new West End musical directed by Academy Award winner Sam Mendes (American Beauty; Jarhead; Skyfall).

When Charlie wins a golden ticket to the weird and wonderful Wonka Chocolate Factory, it’s the chance of a lifetime to feast on the sweets he’s always dreamed of.  But beyond the gates astonishment awaits, as down the sugary corridors and amongst the incredible edible delights, the five lucky winners discover not everything is as sweet as it seems.

Featuring ingenious stagecraft, the wonder of the original story that has captivated the world for almost 50 years is brought to life with music by Mark Shaiman, and lyrics by Scott Wittman and Marc Shaiman (Grammy winners for Hairspray; Smash), a book by award-winning playwright and adaptor David Greig (The Bacchae; Tintin in Tibet), set and costume designs by Mark Thompson (Mamma Mia!; One Man, Two Guvnors) and choreography by Peter Darling (Billy Elliot The Musical; Matilda The Musical).

A chocolate garden, an army of squirrels and the curiously peculiar Oompa-Loompas must be believed to be seen in this gigantic new musical that is choc-full of fantastical treats to dazzle your senses.

My Review:
Charlie and the Chocolate Factory has been entertaining children and adults alike for years, whether by book or film adaptation.  When we began planning our trip to London, this was one of the must-see shows for both of us, as it hasn't made landfall in the USA yet.  Now, we all know that Film-to-Musical adaptations can be tricky to pull off, and Book-to-Film-to-Musical adaptations can be downright atrocious.  There was definitely a morbid curiosity about this one:  would it be great, terrible, or so fantastically bad that we couldn’t help but love it?  In the end, it was simply enjoyable.  That’s not so bad a thing, is it?  We walked away feeling that it was a good opening gambit for the week of theatre-filled goodness to follow.  The sets were incredible.  The cast was engaging.  The song and dance was certainly entertaining enough.  But if you’ve read the book or seen either movie, this production doesn’t bring anything particularly new to the table.  Recommended for children of all ages…or adults who are still kids at heart.  Just don’t expect your world to be changed in the aftermath. 

Once, Phoenix Theatre

About the Show:
A heart-warming, hilarious, and bittersweet love story that celebrates the power of music, performed live on stage by an extraordinary cast of actor-musicians, Once dazzles with invention, wit and unforgettable songs.

Winner of two 2014 Olivier Awards, eight Tony Awards and a Grammy Award this is the show everyone's falling for. Featuring all of the magical songs from the original film, including the Oscar-winning "Falling Slowly," this achingly beautiful, thrillingly inspirational show strikes an unforgettable chord and truly dares to be different. How often does a musical like this come around...

My Review:
This is the one holdover from our trip to NYC that I had really wanted to see but was unable to, so I
was thrilled to be able to see it now.

As stated above, Once is adapted from the film of the same name.  TJ told me just as the show was beginning that we had tried to watch the movie and had hated it.  Oops.  Why didn’t he mention that before?  This was gonna suck.

Only…it didn’t.  It was heartbreakingly beautiful from start to finish.  We’ve since tried to watch the film again...and failed.  The stage is where it’s at for this one, folks.  Had we just one more day to spend in London, I do believe we would have seen it again.  Recommended for anyone with a soul.  


The Lion King, Lyceum Theatre

About the Show:
Set against the majesty of the Serengeti Plains to the evocative rhythms of Africa, this spectacular production explodes with glorious colours, stunning effects, and enchanting music to tell the timeless story of Simba and his epic journey to fulfill his destiny as King of the Pridelands.

Julie Taymor, one of the world’s most innovative directors, brought a vast array of disciplines to The Lion King, including extensive experience staging epic theatre and opera productions, exploring classic myths through ritualized puppetry, mask, and movement. 

My Review:  
I actually saw this one during my college years.  I didn’t particularly enjoy it then, and I wasn’t in a hurry to see it now.  I just find it kind of...icky.  It's pretty faithful to its cartoon roots...minus one pseudo-sexual moment between two characters that I normally wouldn't care about, save for the fact that this is basically for children.

I’d been avoiding this for ten years though, so it was time to stop denying TJ the experience.  To my…disappointment?  delight?...he didn’t particularly enjoy the show, either.  Like Charlie, it’s too similar to the source material to provide anything very original.  Costumes are gorgeous though.  I did notice an alteration since the last time I saw the show; “The Morning Report” has been removed.  Pity, as the original songs were always my favorite part.  Recommended for anyone who thinks Disney can do no wrong.        



Jersey Boys, Piccadilly Theatre4


About the Show:
Winner of 55 major awards worldwide, including the Olivier Award for BEST NEW MUSICAL.

Jersey Boys, the internationally acclaimed hit musical, tells the remarkable rise to stardom of one of the most successful bands in pop music history.


Discover how four New Jersey boys from the wrong sid of the tracks invented their own unique sound, were inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and sold 100 million records worldwide.  With spectacular performances of of all their this, Jersey Boys is the electrifying true life story of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons; the mob, the heartaches, the triumphs and the music.


My Review:

This is one of those shows that has been out for so long that, sooner or later, you just have to get it over and done with.  And we never should have waited.  My initial thought upon leaving the theatre was "Ooh! Finally, a musical I could bring my parents to."  Not a bad thing.  This is the music I grew up with.  This is the music my parents grew up with.  This is a part of entertainment history.   Recommended for fans of the pre-autotune wonder years.  


Miss Saigon, Prince Edward Theatre


About the Show:
This epic musical love story tells the tragic tale of young bar girl Kim, orphaned by war, who falls in love with an American G.I. called Chris - but their lives are torn apart by the fall of Saigon.

Cameron Mackintosh's acclaimed new production has made its highly anticipated return to the West End, and is breaking box office records.


Since Miss Saigon's sensational record-breaking run at London's Theatre Royal Drury Lane 25 years ago it has played in 300 cities in 15 different languages, winning awards around the world.




My Review:  Whoah.  I was not expecting that.  This show has been around forever, but out of circulation for a number of years.  It's one that I heard of almost the very moment that I first became interested in musical theatre, but somehow the plot synopsis always eluded me.  Perhaps that's for the best, as it couldn't possibly have carried the same emotional impact in my earlier years.  No spoilers here, but check out the photo directly above to see why it may hit so close to home.  Recommended for every diplomat (and family) in the world.    



The 39 Steps, Criterion Theatre


About the Show:
Alfred Hitchcock’s classic thriller, The 39 Steps, brilliantly and hilariously recreated for the stage as the smash hit Olivier Award Winning Comedy.
Follow the incredible adventures of our handsome hero Richard Hannay, complete with stiff-upper-lip, British gung-ho and pencil moustache as he encounters dastardly murders, double-crossing secret agents, and, of course, devastatingly beautiful women.
This wonderfully inventive and gripping comedy thriller features actors, playing 139 roles in 100 minutes of fast-paced fun and thrilling action.

My Review:  
This was the first of four plays that we would see over the course of the week.  I seemed to have enjoyed this outing more than TJ, who was put off by the cast of five running back and forth playing multiple roles in rapid succession.  I thought it was cute and quirky.  It certainly kept my attention...but for the life of me, I cannot recall how the mystery resolved itself.  Recommended for mystery lovers who don't take themselves (or the plot) too seriously.  

Agatha Christie’s The Mousetrap, St. Martin's Theatre
About the Show:
If The Mousetrap were a public figure, it would be a national treasure – a Judi Dench, perhaps, or a Stephen Fry. You wouldn’t pass up the opportunity to spend an evening with those two, so why put off your visit to this vintage whodunnit from mistress of suspense Agatha Christie?
There really is nothing quite like the thrill of peeking into a remote house, sizing up its rum residents and pondering the mounting pile of red herrings as you try to crack one of the most celebrated cases of all time. 
Five guests arrive at a country hotel, only to find themselves snowed in. A policeman turns up, warning of a murderer on the loose. One by one, the guests are investigated until a trap is laid to catch the killer.
To tell you any more would not only spoil the surprise but also upset the tradition that no one who’s seen the show ever reveals the murderer’s identity – which means there really is only one way you’re ever going to find out.

Also, TJ wanted me to note the he successfully deduced "whodunit?" before play's end.  Show off.  

My Review:
Sorry.  Guests are sworn to an oath of secrecy at the end of the play.  But I liked it.  A lot.  Recommended for everyone.  It's the longest running show of any kind in the world.  This thing's an institution, people! 


Matilda, Cambridge Theatre

About the Show:
Inspired by the twisted genius of Roald Dahl, with book by Dennis Kelly and original songs by Tim Minchin, Matilda is the captivating musical masterpiece from the Royal Shakespeare Company that revels in the anarchy of childhood, the power of imagination and the inspiring story of a girl who dares to change her destiny.

My Review:
Woof.  No, I mean WOOF.  This…was…BAD.  TJ and I went in with such high hopes for this show, particularly after having enjoyed Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Dahl’s other masterpiece come to stage, just a few nights prior.  We had seen performances during the Tony Awards and
Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade that led us to believe it would at least be entertaining.  Instead, we found that the set design was cute but not altogether original.  The acting was weak.  The singing was practically inaudible.  Perhaps this is the show that bucks the trend of musical theatre always being weaker in the second act….but we’ll never know.  We left at intermission.  Never in my life have I walked out of a stage production, but this truly was a special occasion.  Recommended for no one.  Go to a pub instead.

September 6th
King Charles III, Wyndham’s Theatre

About the Show:
The Queen is dead: after a lifetime of waiting, the prince ascends the throne. A future of power. But how to rule?

Directed by Rupert Goold, this ‘bracingly provocative and outrageously entertaining new play’ (The Independent) explores the people underneath the crowns, the unwritten rules of our democracy, and the conscience of Britain's most famous family.



My Review:
I had seen the posters all over town, coaxing me over the course of several days to give in attend a performance.  I somehow just knew I'd be full of regret if I missed it.  It was an odd choice, and definitely not world famous, but we took a shot and were glad we did.   

It was, by far, the best play I have ever seen.  No member of the royal family is safe in this tale of a perennial prince finally getting his chance to shine.  As Americans, I think we find ourselves mystified by the royal family.  Maybe it's because royalty is beyond us.  Maybe it's because, in another life, royalty could have ruled over us.  Or maybe it's because we read too many fairy tales.  Whatever the case, this deliciously scandalous production is probably the closest we will ever get to knowing how the other half live.       

It appears that the run has ended, but if there's ever a revival, I'd recommend it to anyone that enjoys a good political spoof.     


Les Misérables, Queens Theatre


About the Show:
Seen by more than 70 million people in 43 countries and in 22 languages around the globe, it is still breaking box-office records everywhere in its 30th year.
Set against the backdrop of 19th-century France, Les Misérables tells an enthralling story of broken dreams and unrequited love, passion, sacrifice and redemption – a timeless testament to the survival of the human spirit.
Ex-convict Jean Valjean is hunted for decades by the ruthless policeman Javert after he breaks parole. When Valjean agrees to care for factory worker Fantine’s young daughter, Cosette, their lives change forever. 
Featuring the songs “I Dreamed A Dream”, “Bring Him Home”, “One Day More” and “On My Own” – Les Misérables is the show of shows.

My Review:  
Really?  It's Les Mis!  Go see it already.  

The Woman in Black, Fortune Theatre


Susan Hill’s acclaimed ghost story comes dramatically alive in Stephen Mallatratt’s ingenious stage adaptation. Now celebrating 25 terrifying years in the West End, Robin Herford’s gripping production is a brilliantly successful study in atmosphere, illusion and controlled horror.

A lawyer obsessed with a curse that he believes has been cast over him and his family by the spectre of a Woman in Black, engages a sceptical young actor to help him tell his terrifying story and exorcise the fear that grips his soul. It all begins innocently enough, but then, as they reach further into his darkest memories, they find themselves caught up in a world of eerie marshes and moaning winds.

My Review:  
This was another one where TJ said "You know, we tried to watch this movie and couldn't.  In fact, you fell asleep."  

Oops.

Unlike Once, this dud did not surpass it's cinematic sibling.

It was so bad that, by the end, TJ was mad at me for making him watch it.  

Sorry, boo.  I love you!  


West End Bares 2014 – Nude Dunnit?, Café de Paris

About the Show:
2014's WEST END BARES has been EXPOSED as a MURDER MYSTERY! 
A classic take on the much loved genre featuring the usual suspects! Who is the MURDERER? What was their WEAPON of choice? and what was their MOTIVE?! All will be revealed at this one-off event at London’s most glamorous venue, CAFE DE PARIS. Featuring performers from all the West End Shows and, as ever, a handful of Celebrity Guests, this is going to be another night of cheeky, sexy, fun and flesh! It would be a CRIME to MISS IT!!!

All money raised goes to support the Make A Difference Trust, which brings together the British Entertainment community and its audiences to raise funds to support people living with HIV and AIDS, and those in the entertainment industry facing hardship as a result of a long-term medical condition.



My Review:
Many, MANY thanks to our friend Anwarul, who not only 
suggested attending this charity event, but
treated us to the price of admission, freeing up our own cash for stripper tips.  Now, now.  Don't judge.  The "strippers" were professional actors and actresses from West End shows, and all of the money went to charity.  

I suppose I'll keep it classy and refrain from sharing the more provocative photos from the event, but if you ever find yourself in London (or New York, for the equivalent Broadway Bares), I would encourage you to give it a go.  It's all in good fun, and all for a truly worthy cause.

And with that, our time in London ended.  There were still many adventure to be had before returning to Jerusalem.  I'll get to those soon, but next time, how about we actually step outside of the theatre district and see a bit of London?

Monday, March 2, 2015

Bayt 'Itab National Park


There are many ways to experience the world around you.  For some, that could mean visiting the museums and churches of eastern Europe.  For others, it may involve haggling with vendors and taking a risk on street food in Latin America.  You could go on an African safari or enjoy the Russian ballet.

For our friends Josh and Irene, all of the above is fine...but they would prefer to find a big splotch of green on the map and then proceed to walk from one end of it to the other. They arrived in Jerusalem a week or two after us, and as near as I can tell, we have yet to do one non-work-related function with them that didn't involve sand getting in my shoes.  I approve of this, as it often results in my seeing something I may otherwise have never given a passing thought to.


On Sunday, August 10th we joined them for a hike along the Wadi Me'Ara Trail in the Wadi Dolev Nature Reserve.  The trail, located 18km south southwest of Jerusalem, begins with a series of orchard trees that eventually give way to low vegetation.  The canyon is home to natural woodland species and wildflowers.  A sign at the trail's beginning advised that foxes, jackals, gazelles, porcupines, hyenas, and rodents make their homes there, as well as various kinds of amphibians, songbirds, and raptors.

Now, even assuming that "raptors" referred birds and not dinosaurs, I still had no desire to run into 56% of the critters listed.  Happy to report that we encountered none of the above.

The trail's main attractions would have to be En Khod and the ruins of Bayt 'Itab, which have been turned into a national park (Bayt 'Itab National Park, for those that missed this post's title).


Water for the residents of the surrounding villages (from the Byzantine, Crusader, and Ottoman periods, as evidenced by surrounding ruins) was provided by En Khod, which is Arabic for "the spring of the watering trough."

The spring has a 40 meter long tunnel with three vertical shafts.  Water collects in a constructed reservoir room and is then channeled toward a pool and into the trough from which flocks would drink.


Orchard trees surround the spring, among them fig, lemon, and almond.  Mediterranean species are also found here, including Kermes oak, carob, and terebinth.  The land in the spring's immediate vicinity is so fertile that lush tree-sized grape vines thrive haphazardly on their own, a far cry from the small, strategically placed vines found in nearby winery orchards  The spring also attracts all of the various wild animals mentioned earlier.

By contrast, nearby Bayt 'Itab sits abandoned in a landscape so arid you can hardly conceive of its close proximity to the spring.


Bayt 'Itab was a Palestinian village located just outside of Jerusalem and is believed to have been inhabited since biblical times.  A tunnel that led from the village to the spring is associated with the story of Samson, as it is speculated that this is the site of the Rock of Etam, where angry Samson took refuge after his wedding...didn't go quite according to plan.


Up until the end of the British Mandate, approximately 600 Muslim families lived in stone houses and cultivated grains, fruit trees, and olive groves.  Some bred livestock.   The village was depopulated and demolished following Operation HaHar in October 1948, which saw Israeli forces fighting to extend the Jerusalem Corridor to the south.

The village's displaced inhabitants fled to Bethlehem, Hebron, and the Dheisheh Refugee Camp in the West Bank.

In 1950, an Israeli settlement, Nes Harim, was established to the north of Bayt 'Itab, on an adjacent peak.  Like Baty 'Itab before it, the settlement's population hovers around 600.

The Israel Nature and Parks Authority restored the area around the spring in 2005.

The population of the Dheisheh Refugee Camp had grown from 3,400 in 1949 to 9,399 by 2006.