Mexico City, Day 7: Diego Rivera, the National Palace, and Frida Kahlo, Too!

Bear with me folks...we are now, finally, entering our last day in Mexico City (Well, there was an eighth day, but that was mainly travel, so I'll spare you the boring details)!

Our seventh day in Mexico City began with a very nice complimentary piece to Day Six's visit to the anthropology museum.

Whereas yesterday we learned many things about the societal origins of the indigenous peoples of Mexico, today's visit to the Palacio Nacional taught us many things about the country's political history.

The National Palace has acted as a base of operations for Mexico's ruling class since the days of the Aztec empire. It is currently home to various offices for both the Federal Treasury and National Archives. And, of course, a sprawling museum exhibit.

Visitors to the palace are first treated to (or horrified by, depending on your outlook) a video honoring the 2010 bicentennial of Mexico's independence, as well as the centennial of it's Revolution. The video is 100% propaganda and, although beautifully rendered with copious amounts of national pride, did have the (un)intentional consequence of making the only two gringos in the room feel just a tad bit out of place.

Upon exiting the indoctrination chamber...I mean viewing room, one is treated to a gigantic mural painted by Diego Rivera. "The Epic of the Mexican People" (1929-1935) adorns the main stairwell and various walls of the second floor. It tells an illustrative history of Mexico from 1521 to 1930. The murals have the honor of being the only items in the palace that one can photograph. So, here's a small sample for you.

Remember waaaaay back on Day 1.5, when we talked about the relocation of the bodily remains of the heroes of Mexico's War of Independence? Well, the National Palace is their current resting place. Ta-Dah! The remains underwent modern techniques for continued preservation before arriving at their current location by way of horse-drawn carriages escorted by armed soldiers. They will remain on display at the palace through the duration of this year's celebration.

The remainder of the museum contains an impressive collection of presidential portraits, the style of which changes with each decade and artist. As with Chapultepec Castle (and the White House, Versailles, etc.) there are also dozens of rooms cordoned off by velvet rope permitting a look-but-don't touch approach to palatial living.

Our final stop of the day (and trip) was the former home of Diego Rivera (see above) and Frida Kahlo.

La Casa Azul was the birthplace of Frida Kahlo, the most renowned Latin American artist in the world. It was in this house that she lived for a time with her husband, artist Diego Rivera. In 1958, four years after her death, La Casa Azul was turned into a museum, and has remained so ever since.

This particular museum was of great interest to us, and we thought that perhaps we had saved the best for last. We unfortunately found ourselves more than a little disappointed by the modest blue house. It was by no means a large collection of art. But at least what they did have was beautiful.

But like the National Palace, photography was not permitted.

I found myself harassed by the staff on more than one occasion. Once, when I was yelled at to throw away a soda bottle (empty since before my entrance, I assure you, and seen by at least two employees prior to it suddenly becoming a security issue) and again when our path through the museum was called into question. Apparently your entry fee of $65 MXP only permits you to walk through the museum once, and in a specified direction.

But the sugar cookies in the small cafeteria were good. And the interior courtyard was beautiful.

But, alas...since photos are worth a thousand words, and I have no more photos...I find myself out of things to say about this particular destination.

Good-bye, Mexico City...I hope to see you again some day!

Mexico City, Day 6: Museo Nacional de Antropología

Located in the heart of the San Francisco Sierra in the state of Baja California Sur, the Painted Cave is one of the most important ceremonial centers featuring "cave art" in the North of Mexico...This composition, reproduced at almost full size, shows a fragment of this great wall painting.

This imagery, and the accompanying text, are the first thing to greet visitors of Mexico City's impressive, expansive, Anthropology Museum.

One barely finds himself scratching the surface of this sprawling collection before being hit by a dawning realization:

"Now I understand. I know why US Anthropology museums suck."

It's because the United States has very little anthropology to speak of.

From a purely scientific standpoint, Merriam-Webster defines anthropology as "the study of human beings and their ancestors through time and space and in relation to physical character, environmental and social relations, and culture."

Look Familiar? How about now?

Okay. Great. But we as Americans don't identify with our Native American predecessors who were first to roam the land. We define ourselves by the colonial settlers who founded the United States of America. Our history begins in 1776. 1492 if we're going back to Columbus's arrival. That's only 235 years. 519, tops. And even then, humanity as it is now known had pretty much developed. America must look east, towards Europe, for it's anthropologic origins.

But Mexicans? They cast a much wider chronological net. Mexico was first populated over 13,000 years ago. Complex indigenous cultures were prevalent long before the Spaniards arrived. And although there is no argument that, as in the United States, a mixing of races occurred, Mexico managed to hold onto it's identity. The United States was born in Europe. Mexico was born in Mexico.

And because of this, one does not feel quite so detached when viewing these ancient artifacts. Because one understands that they are still pertinent to the people that live here.

The pottery. The hand-carved figurines. The reproductions of burial grounds and family housing. The native clothing. They are all relevant to the people of Mexico. Because chances are, their ancestors possessed these things. And, perhaps, painted the wall that opens this blog post.

In the United States, history museums are a fascinating look back at the origins of our independence, while anthropology museums are a quirky footnote in time. In Mexico, history and anthropology are forever linked.

Perhaps one day the US can say the same.

Or maybe not...

"Hulk SMASH history!"

Mexico City, Day 5.5: Zoológico de Chapultepec

Our day in Chapultepec Park continued with a visit to Zoológico de Chapultepec (est. 1923).

A day at the zoo is always relaxing...and yet incredibly stressful. Relaxing because you don't have to actually do anything. You just walk around and look at the pretty (or pretty ugly) animals. Eat a hot dog. Drink a Coke. Nothing to it, right?

Wrong.

Because, you see, I am a shutterbug. I take pictures of everything. And I don't want to just take any old picture. I want the perfect picture. And do you know how hard it can be to take that perfect picture at the zoo? Half the time the animals are hiding/sleeping in a secluded area. And the rest of the time they are sleeping out in the open with their butts pointed straight at you.

Chapultepec Zoo really is no exception. We left Chapultepec Castle walking at a brisk pace (and by "we" I mean TJ. I was busy taking pictures of water and trees and trash cans or something. We (TJ) knew that the zoo would be closing in just a couple of very short hours and we (TJ) had to cram as much into those hours as possible.

We spent the majority of those hours walking up to cages/dens/areas of captivity, looking at the empty surroundings, reading the nearby sign post, and walking away at least knowing what we SHOULD have seen.

You see, there are two types of zoos. There is the kind that puts the animals first, meaning that they have lots of space to eat, frollick, and sleep, thus greatly reducing your chances of seeing them. And then there is the kind that locks the animals in teeny, tiny cages where they are miserable but you can see them readily. I suppose this zoo falls into the former category. Good for the critters, bad for the visitors.* But hey, it was free.

Why is it that the camels always pose so well?

This half-blind bird stalked a squirrel and entertained us for 10 mintues.

(The squirrel survived)

I got a great shot of a real rhino...but this is my fave.

This is the face that matches the butt posted above...

Things weren't all bad, though, and we were able to snap a few pretty pictures. And by "we" I mean me. TJ was too busy walking briskly.

Though I suppose one could make the argument that it was totally my fault that the zoo closed before we finished our walkthrough...

*Before anybody gets uppity, I do not now, nor have I ever, condoned the unethical treatment of animals. I love animals. They're delicious.**

**Before anybody else gets uppity, I sincerely believe that animals should be allowed to live out their lives with the utmost peace and dignity. I am an omnivore, so yes I eat certain types of animals...but I firmly believe that they should all be treated with respect while living their short lives, and even more so when those lives are taken. Except snakes. Snakes suck and should die horribly.***

***Before anybody gets uppity about snakes, I...well. No, I got nothing. I really, truly, deeply hate snakes.

But I LOVE squirrels! Look at this little guy! He's eating ice cream!

Awww. I hope he's not lactose intolerant...

Mexico City, Day 5: Chapultepec Castle

I returned from a week of fun and excitement in San Diego yesterday afternoon...with a brand new Macbook in tow. What this means is that I can finally resume blogging! And as much as I would love to share my California adventures with all of you RIGHT NOW, I feel that I must continue this blog chronologically, and so we now return to Mexico City before any more of its vividness is lost forever.

This is Mexico City, Day 5. And although I write this on July 27, these experiences occurred on May 19th. Yes, we are that far behind. Sigh.

Day five saw us venturing into El Bosque de Chapultepec, or Chapultepec Park. Measuring in at a whopping 686 hectares (1695 acres), it is the largest city park in Latin America. For anyone that is curious, New York City's Central Park is only 843 acres.

Prior to Spain's occupation of Mexico, the park was something of a retreat for Aztec rulers. Chapultepec Castle was erected during colonial times and holds the honor of being the only Royal Castle on the American Continent. Emperor Maximilian I resided here during the Second Mexican Empire, which also makes this the only Royal Castle in North America that was used to house sovereigns. But that isn't what makes this location so important.

On September 13, 1847, los Niños Héroes ("Boy Heroes") died while defending the castle from US forces during the Battle of Chapultepec (Mexican-American War). The castle served as the national military academy at the time of the attack. Although Santa Ana allowed the boys to retreat, many stayed behind to defend their home. One boy, Juan Escutia, is said to have wrapped himself in a Mexican flag and thrown himself from the building in lieu of surrendering. A mural painted on the ceiling above a stairwell in the main entrance of the castle honors them.

A statue situated at the east entrance of the park, Monumento a los Niños Héroes, contains six columns, each of which represents a child that died during the battle. They are:

• Juan de la Barrera
• Juan Escutia
• Francisco Márquez
• Agustín Melgar
• Fernando Montes de Oca
• Vicente Suárez

September 13th is a national celebration known as "Dia de Los Niños Heroes de Chapultepec."

The castle became the Museo Nacional de Historia under a 1939 decree by President Lázaro Cárdenas.

In its current capacity, the castle acts as a palacial museum, playing host to many stereotypical palacial museum-type things, including:

Fancy living quarters, fancy staircases...

...fancy courtyards, and fancy stained glass windows

I've had the pleasure of visiting similar locations in the past, but this was by far one of the most expansive and well preserved/cared for. I'd go so far as to call it the Versailles of Mexico.

And, as such, visitors should take care to respect their surroundings. So, please...

...always remember to have your friend turn the flash off before he pushes the button...

Mexico City, Day 4: Six Flags

Back in March of 2010, I used Six Flags Over Texas as an analogy for Flag Day.

How ironic, or maybe just appropriate, that our first post ended up being one of a tiny majority to actually have a Six Flags.

TJ and I are theme/amusement park enthusiasts. When we tell people that we visit these parks during vacations abroad, they look at us like we're crazy fools who have wasted precious hours in an exotic locale. Maybe they're right. But for us, it's a day well spent. The food, the attractions, the theming, the costumes...they always give you just a little bit more insight into the country you have found yourself in.

Six Flags Mexico is no exception.

For example, the very first thing we noticed about the park was that, despite the gates opening at 10:00, there was no food or beverage to be found until after 11:00. This speaks to a culture that tends to have late breakfasts, later lunches, and horribly late dinners. Not something we've adjusted to yet, and we totally forgot to grab breakfast on the way. Even Vicente, a native Mexican, was getting a little restless for some yum yums. And if the flock...no, army...of birds that surrounded us as we finally sat down to eat are any indication, we were definitely not alone in our thinking.

The second thing to strike me was the cross-promotional material for other Six Flags parks. The only sister park to get any mention was Six Flags Fiesta Texas. This particular park is located in San Antonio, which of course is home to a large Latino/Hispanic population. According to the 2006-2008 American Community Survey, the racial composition of the city breaks down as follows:

• White: 68.9% (Non-Hispanic Whites: 28.9%)
• Black or African American: 6.6%
• American Indian: 0.6%
• Asian: 2.0%
• Native Hawaiian and Other Pacific Islanders: 0.1%
• Some Other Race: 19.4%
• Two or More Races: 2.4%
• Hispanic or Latino (of any race): 61.2%

So, clearly, Six Flags Mexico knows who they cater to.

The third thing that we noticed was that the labor-intensive attractions, such as the Batman Stunt show and the Terminator X, cost extra. Typically, price gauging of this sort is reserved for sky coasters and the like, but it seems to work here. The current General Admission price for Six Flags Over Texas is $36.99, compared to $30.98 for Six Flags Mexico. What this means is that a cheaper ticket price is offered for those that may just wish to bring their families to the park to enjoy the rides and not worry about the loud, violent, potentially scary shows (Note: We cheaped out and didn't pay extra for anything).

As for the rides, they were pretty much standard Six Flags fair. You have your mandatory Superman and/or Batman ride. There was a gravity house, which I haven't seen since I was a wee lad. There were bad magic and dance performances. There were overpriced carnival games. Overall, it was your typical amusement park experience...which accounts for the fact that we didn't take many pictures that day.

I know, I know. I should be ashamed of myself. But I'm not. I had a lot of fun, despite "almost" starving to death. And I got a nifty Daffy Duck mug and a Flash hoodie, so I'm all set for memories.

But I do want to share one last observation with you.

Mexican Robin is smokin' hot.

Mexico City, Day 3: Teotihuacan

If you were to head 40 kilometers northeast of Mexico City, or what we shall now and forever refer to as the "Gee-that's-pretty-but-I-sure-wanted-to-see-Tenochtitlan" City, you would run into a magical little place called Teotihuacan.

And if you're a sucker like us, you might pay a local guide 500 pesos to show you around. You might even be as surprised as we were to discover that this was 500 pesos well spent. We learned all sorts of things that the ravages of time will cause us to forget.

Established circa 100BCE, the city is thought to have lasted until somewhere between the 7th and 8th centuries, CE. In 1987, it was indoctrinated into the registry of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It is the third such site we have visited since arriving in Mexico (see Post Labels below)

Our tour guide informed us that the Aztecs discovered Teotihuacan (The City of the Gods) as they searched for what would ultimately become Tenochtitlan, but that they did not actually build the city. It was already there. As for who is responsible for the construction, that's a question we may never know the answer to (insert spooky music here). All that is known is that some Aztecs sojourned forth toward Mexico City...and some stayed behind.

After the tour our guide took us to a small compound at which we were taught about the practical, non-Tequila uses for Agave. Apparently, it was both an early form of paper (peel the stalks) and needle and thread (break the tip off, thread it with shredded Agave stalks).

We then received a presentation about precious stones that can be found in Mexico (and the art that is made using them), after which we were invited to shop (ah! the catch!) their art gallery. We're suckers, so of course we bought stuff. Our friend Vicente bought a stone turtle carved out of obsidian, while we bought a little totem-man, carved from the same.

We then returned to the archaeological site, where we were able to climb half-way up the Moon Pyramid (Can't go to the top anymore because an old white lady fell down and died. Tour guide said that plenty of Mexicans have fallen to their deaths, but it took an American dying before safety regulations were put in place. Sad, if true.) and all the way to the top of the Sun Pyramid (I guess no old biddies have busted a hip on this one yet).

The climb, she was a tough one. Lots and lots of teeny, tiny stairs. All close together. Tall, yet skinny. It was kind of scary, and the hand rails are mega-flimsy. At one point, to get down, TJ sat on the ground and butt-scooted all the way to the bottom. Has a bit of a problem with heights, that one. He likes to keep it a secret. I didn't even know until Fall 2009 when he flipped out in the Eiffel Tower. He really likes to keep that to himself.

Oops.

Above you will see the Moon Pyramid (left) and the Sun Pyramid (right). Our guide told us of a small metal marker that lies at the top of the Sun Pyramid. He advised us that, were one to touch the marker while holding an object crafted from onyx, one would receive special powers...which I will fully admit is our reason for buying our little souvenirs earlier in the day. Damn, he's good.

Below you will see the Temple of the Feathered Serpent, aka The Temple of Quetzalcoatl, aka the Feathered Serpent Pyramid. Standing directly in front of it is The Adosada Platform. The remains of over 200 human sacrifices have been found beneath the Temple, which was named for the beautifully rendered carvings that decorate its exterior.

Although it was both a religious and political center for the city, the eventual erection of The Adosada Platform, strategically placed to block the view of the pyramid, suggests that there was a shift in public opinion or religious ideology.

Speaking of a shift in public opinion...remember those powers I talked about earlier?

Well, after attempting human sacrifice, calling on the Power of Grayskull...

...presenting oneself, and stabbing each other in the back...we got nuthin'.

Maybe that tour wasn't worth 500 pesos after all.

Mexico City, Day 2: The Origin of Mexico

There is an old Aztec legend that tells us how the Aztecs chose the site on which to build their capital city, Tenochtitlan.

Huitzilopochtli, who pulled double duty as both the sun god and the god of war, visited the Aztec chief in a dream. The leader was instructed that he must settle his clan, which referred to itself as "The People of the Sun," in the place in which they would find an eagle sitting on a prickly pear cactus eating a serpent. And so they set out to find this very thing. If you believe in legends and/or ancient dieties, then you might also believe that they were successful.

Tenochtitlan was founded in 1325.

The approximate 5.2 sq mi city served as the Aztec capital until Spanish invaders captured the city in 1521.

If there are two things I remember about Mexican history, having grown up in Texas, it's that:

1. The Aztecs were bad-ass; and
2. Texas and Mexico have a very violent shared history (Sidenote: My time in Mexico has taught me that blame for this is placed differently depending on which side of the Texas-Mexico border you lie)

But we aren't talking about Texas today. We're talking about Tenochtitlan. Home of the Aztecs, the dominating force in Mexico's pre-European civilization. I had always dreamt of visiting this city.

Maybe I should have paid more attention in history class; Tenochtitlan ain't there any more. Well, not exactly.

Following the Spanish occupation, Hernán Cortés ordered the destruction of the city. Modern day Mexico City would eventually be built on its ruins. So, technically, I guess I've been there after all.

Here's what the original city may have looked like.

...and this is all that remains of this important piece of history...

Also, as if to add insult to injury, the one place that held any remaining hope of my seeing this once great city, the Templo Mayor Museum, was closed for renovation.

Oh, well. Mexico City is a wonderful place. I'm sure I will go back one day. And by then, the museum should be open.

In the meantime, I've discovered that what I PROBABLY always meant to see was another ancient city called Teotihuacan. And see it, I did. But that's a subject for another day.

Mexico City, Day 1.5: Walking Along Reforma

I suppose in hindsight this one should really be Day 1.0 and the Ricky Martin concert should be 1.5, but I wrote that one first and I'm not changing it, so we'll all just have to deal with it.

Anyway, sometime between exiting the plane and arriving at the concert, we found time to check into the hotel, nap, shower, and see a little of the city, being the super vacationers that we are.

So what did we see? Glad (to pretend) that you asked!

Our hotel of choice was the Hotel Emporio, located on Paseo de La Reforma. We reserved a room here not really knowing much about the area other than that it was pretty central to a lot of the things we wanted to see, so we were relieved to find that it was located in a safe, clean, and active part of the city. In fact, La Reforma is such a happening place that our first afternoon was spent just exploring this one street.

The Feria de Las Culturas Amigas bore a passing resemblance to April's Feria Internacional Gastronomica...but only in passing. Hosting 64 countries over a period of 15 days, Mexico City's feria easily overshadowed Guadalajara's 1 day, 20 some-odd country event.

Organized by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, the event's purpose was to promote respect for cultural diversity, pluralism, and richness of tangible and intangible cultural heritage. That's all well and good, but so far as I can tell, proceeds did not go to charity, so Guadalajara scored some points there. But we were able to snag an awesome seder plate at the Israel both, so mega points to Mexico City.

As we perused the booths we had to dodge and weave our way through countless bicyclers, rollerbladers, and joggers. For, you see, this was Sunday. And we quickly learned that, as in Guadalajara, Sunday mornings in Mexico City are reserved for the RecreAtiva.

Basically what this means is that certain streets are closed off to traffic and opened up to the exercise-minded members of the community. In Guadalajara this takes the form of the Vía RecreActiva, which we have done a couple of times but has not found its way into this blog (yet). In Mexico City, it is called the Muévete en Bici, and consists of a 24km trek along Reforma.

The Fountain of Diana the Huntress (aka The Northern Star Shooter) was built in 1942 as part of a city beautification initiative. During more conservative times, bronze pants were actually fashioned for the statue...

...but she seems to be a bit more free wheeling these days.

El Ángel de la Independencia ("The Angel of Independence") is one of the most beloved monuments in the city and plays host to many events, both joyous and controversial. During our week in Mexico City, we saw both a PETA protest and a feria-sponsored rock concert occur at the base of the statue.

The monument commemorates the centennial of Mexico's 1910 War of Independence, and at one time acted as a mausoleum for that war's most recognized heroes. The bodies have been relocated...a subject that will be touched upon in an upcoming post...

..but for now, it's bed time. I must say, a month off from serious blogging, combined with the late hour, makes for one tired Aaron.

Hasta luego, y'all!