The Honeymooners, Days Ten and Eleven: Istanbul was Constantinople…and Tatooine?

I'm a toy lover at heart, though it's not something I talk about here very often as this is more of a travel blog.  How fortunate when a rare occasion presents itself that allows me to talk about both in tandem.  

In the early days of April 2013, scandal hit the LEGO community when the company announced the retirement of a product called LEGO Star Wars 9516 Jabba's Palace.  The product had been under scrutiny since January, when Austria's Turkish community claimed that the building block toy set was based on Istanbul's Hagia Sophia mosque, and that the accompanying mini figures depicted Asians and Orientals as people with "deceitful criminal personalities."  LEGO released a statement clarifying that all character depictions in the set were intended to resemble characters from the film franchise, and apologized for any misinterpretation of the product.  The product was then announced as going into retirement at the beginning of April…not because of the controversy, but because all LEGO products are available for a set period of time.  Fair enough.  Their older product is hard to track down, and generally pricey when you find it.

When the controversy became national news (oddly at the time of the retirement announcement as opposed to when the claims of racism first appeared…I guess perceived corporate defeat makes for sexier headlines than perceived corporate bigotry), TJ, who rarely encourages but simply tolerates my passion for toys, said "Oh, maybe you should buy that."  I left dust clouds in my wake as I rushed out the door.  I tried two Targets, one Toys R Us, and even a Barnes & Noble before heading home with my head hung low in defeat.  It was only then that I tried to look on-line and found one available on Amazon.com at retail price.  Sold! 

I always meant to blog about the set, as I found the controversy surrounding it to be delicious.  But then I didn't.  And then January rolled around, and I suddenly found myself at the scene of the alleged crime.

As you can see, the toy kind of looks like the CGI movie palace…and neither look anything at all like the Hagia Sophia...

Anyway.

When the Norwegian Jade pulled into port on January 13th, 2014, one year had passed since the whole sordid affair had begun.  (And yes, I realize almost half a year has passed since the Norwegian Jade pulled into that port.  I'm going to try to wrap this long-winded and much-delayed story up by Wednesday).  

Our ship docked somewhere on the west bank of the Bosphorus, a strait that forms part of the boundary between Europe and Asia.  See that bridge, off in the distance?  I took this grainy photo from the lido deck of the Jade.  To the left (west) is Europe.  To the right (east) is Asia.  It's not too often that you see such a sight.

Although Ankara holds the title of the nation's capital, Istanbul acts as the cultural, economical, and historical heart of the country.  With a population of over 14 million, Istanbul is the most populated city in not only Turkey, but all of Europe.  (Approximately 1/3 of the city's population is on the Asia side, and I'm not at all certain how that plays into population in regards to Europe, but hey, let them have their bragging rights.)

Istanbul wasn't always known by that name, however.  When Constantine the Great became the emperor of the Roman Empire in the year 324, he formulated plans for a new Christian city that would become ultimately become capital of the Byzantine Empire/Eastern Roman Empire.  That city was named Nea Roma, more commonly referred to as Constantinople.  It was built over the ruins of the Greek city Byzantium.  When  the city was conquered in 1453, it became capital of the Ottoman Empire  and ultimately earned its current name.  

Our first stop was Topkapı Palace, where the Ottoman sultans spent 400 or so years of their 624-year reign.  It acted as the house of government as well as the imperial residence.  The palace was converted into a museum in 1924 and eventually grouped with other "Historic Areas of Istanbul" to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.  Photos were not permitted inside the exhibit areas, but I've included some of my favorite shots from the grounds.  The museum features an impressive collection of weaponry from the Ottoman era,  a priceless collection of Chinese, European, and Japanese porcelains,  and an extensive selection of copper ware.  The Islamic Sacred Relics are also on display, including:

• Moses's staff
• Abraham's cooking pot
• Hair from Muhammad's beard
• Muhammad's swords and bow

Now, as is always the case for locations of historical/Biblical significance, one must make up one's own mind as to whether or not these artifacts are truly what they are portrayed as being.  What I do know for certain is that, the continuous recital of the Quran provides a serene and eloquent backdrop to one's exploration of the gallery space.

(Right):  The Sultan is reported to have had the custom of breaking his fast under this terrace during the fasting month of Ramadan, which coincidentally begins tonight.  Ramadan Karim to all of my Muslim friends.  Love you!  

Up next was a quick photo op outside of the aforementioned Hagia Sophia Mosque (though we wouldn't enter until the next morning)…

…and then we were off to the Grand Bazaar!

We stayed just long enough to get completely stressed out by the crowds and overeager vendors, and to buy some Turkish Delights for coworkers.  Okay, okay.  We also bought several boxes for friends and family, but the only ones that made it out of the house were the two for our coworkers and my parents.  YUM.

As if to make up for the utter disappointment that was the Athens Hard Rock experience, the new franchise in Istanbul seemingly opened a few days prior to our arrival.  The food was, as always, an amazing reminder of American bar food at its finest (with the American novelty of free refills!), and I got my darned shot glass.  Snapped some random but fun street shots along the way.

 That was pretty much it for the first night.  We freshened up and tried to enjoy an evening out and off of the boat, but the nightlife wasn't all it was cracked up to be, especially on a Monday night.  Perhaps we'll give it a go some other time on a long weekend.  All of our coworkers in Jerusalem rave about the Istanbul night scene.  The city itself is definitely beautiful enough to warrant a second pass-through.  And speaking of second pass-throughs…

We started our second and final day in Istanbul by heading underground.  The Basilica Cistern is a 70mx140m water reserve constructed in the 6th century at the height of the East Roman Empire's prosperity.  The columns and capitols are mainly Ionic or Corinthian…and then there's this swirly alien thing to the right...

The only other unusual characteristic to note would be the two Medusa heads.  Nobody is quite sure where they came from, or why one head is upside down while the other lays on its side, but scientists are in agreement that they were most likely laid that way on purpose.  It is theorized that they were ransacked from a late Roman era building and brought here.   

Definitely a cool stop, but Pool of Arches wins Cistern of the Year for the boat ride alone.

Returning to street level, we finally made our way inside the Hagia Sophia Mosque.  The church-truned-mosque-turned museum is a treasure of both the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires.  It apparently makes an appearance in Dan Brown's "Inferno," but I've yet to recover enough from "The Lost Symbol" to give it a go.  

Mosaics depicting Mary, Jesus, and various saints adorned the walls of the Hagia Sophia during the Byzantine period.  They were either ransacked during the crusades or plastered over during the Byzantine era.  When Hagia Sophia became a museum in 1934, work began on recovery and restoration of the mosaics.  Below are three stunning examples, including one artist rendering of what a completed mosaic may have looked like. 

We next ventured across the courtyard to the famous Sultan Ahmed Mosque, more popularly known as the Blue Mosque for the blue tiles adorning the interior walls.  I was unable to take photos during our walkthrough, as there was a prayer service in progress.  The mosque leaders are kind enough to allow entry to outsiders during prayer time but do request that guests refrain from taking pictures until after

services have concluded.  I believe TJ and I were the only visitors to honor that request.  Most people snapped away, many with the aid of distracting flash equipment.  To our horror, several tourists could be seen kneeling on the carpet and pretending to pray while their companions took souvenir photos of the event.  More horrifying still, these tourists didn't even bother to face Mecca while doing so, further demonstrating their lack of respect and understanding for the faith of their hosts.  But hey, it made for a better photo, right?  I was nearly in tears as a small, dignified employee knelt down to politely ask that a tourist cease taking photos.  When the service concluded, an announcement was made inviting any visitor that had questions about Islam to step forward.  Of course none did.  They already had their photo op.  TJ and I sat in stunned, saddened silence for a few minutes, allowing our eyes to take in the beauty of our environment, hearts breaking ever so slightly.

When people so flagrantly disrespect you and your religion to your face, maybe it's not such a far stretch of the imagination to think they would consider doing so in the toy aisle.    

Ramla, The Mazor Mausoleum, and Migdal Tsedek National Park

Today's topic is something that I quite frankly forgot about in the excitement of chronicling our experiences in Bethlehem, and as I try to wrap my head around January's honeymoon adventures in Europe (no, you haven't missed anything...I'll write about that shortly), I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to step back in time for a moment and revisit a fun day with friends.

After seeing the photos from our November 30th trip to Caesarea, our friend Aviv contacted us and said he wanted to go on a day trip with us as well.  Yehuda, a mutual friend of Aviv's who had joined us in Caesarea, would be coming along again.  Options were discussed, and it was decided that December 21st would be a fine time to visit a couple of small towns near Tel Aviv.

Ramla (רַמְלָה , الرملة) is a predominantly Jewish city in central Israel located 20km southeast of Tel Aviv.  The city also boasts a significant Arab population dating back to the city's founding in the early part of the 8th century by the Umayyad Caliph Suleiman.  In fact, Ramla holds the distinction of being the only city in Israel founded and originally developed by Arabs.  

Ramla was the capital of Palestine prior to the arrival of the Crusaders in the 11th century.  Following the 1948 Arab-Israeli War the majority of the city's Arab population were either expelled or fled voluntarily.  The city was repopulated by Jewish immigrants from Asia and North Africa.   

Our first stop of the day was The Tower of Ramla, aka The White Tower, a 13th-or-14th-century minaret that was built as an addition to The White Mosque, itself built in the 8th century by the Caliph Suleiman.  Although scant traces of The White Mosque remain, the six-story minaret stands as a proud reminder of what once was.  

In the northwest corner of the complex is a shrine that local Islamic tradition associates with Nabi Salih, an ancient prophet mentioned seven times in the Koran.  I took no photos of the shrine, as unruly local children saw fit to throw snowballs at me upon approach.  Yes, yes, I realize that snow is not present in any other photos within this blog post.  You just have to trust me that it was still piled up from the previous weekend. 

The site also contains three cisterns, though the entrance to each was locked.  

View of The White Mosque archaeological site from the top of The White Tower

One cistern that was open for public viewing is The Pool of Arches, an underground 8th-century reservoir located a few blocks away.  For a small fee, visitors are allowed to rent a

row boat from which to explore and admire the arches that support the small underground cavern.  The cistern was built in 789AD and the fact that it survived the severe earthquakes that destroyed much of the city, including The White Mosque, is a testament to the quality of its architecture.  The pool was built during the reign of Caliph Harun al-Rashid to ensure that Ramla had a steady water supply.  The pool was fed by rainwater from above, a spring from below, and an aqueduct funneling water from the direction of The White Mosque.  The pool was once known as "The Pool of El Anzia (The Pool of the Goats)," and held troughs for the watering of cattle.  Christians refer to it as "The Pool of Saint Helen," named after the mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine, who is traditionally thought to have ordered the pool's excavation.  

The rest of the morning was spent walking around encountering random things that I can't find any explanation for online, such as this beautiful Garden of Eden inspired mosaic...

…and a small park with a coexistence-inspired motif featuring busts of several famous individuals, including John F. Kennedy.

We wrapped up our morning in Ramla with a delicious lunch at Lonely Planet-recommended Samir's, an Arab family-run restaurant featuring various kebabs, hummus and salads.  

Our next stop was Mazor National Park, located in the town of El'ad, 25km east of Tel Aviv.  It was just a quick stop to visit the Roman Mausoleum, the only Roman-era building in Israel to be so well preserved from foundation to roof.  The mausoleum was built in the 4th century to act as the burial vault for an unidentified Roman couple.  A prayer niche facing toward Mecca was added by the Muslims of the region in later antiquity.  It was at this time that the mausoleum found new life as The Shrine of the Prophet John, functioning as a mosque until the depopulation in 1948 of the Palestinian village Al-Mazaryi'a.

Upon entering the first chamber, you will find the remnants of two sarcophagi, as well as the previously mentioned prayer niche.  A second chamber contains a dovecote with approximately 60 pigeonholes, where doves are theorized to have been raised as sacrifices to the goddess Aphrodite.  

 

In 1949, not understanding the building's historical significance, the Israeli Defense Force targeted the structure for demolition and proceeded to use it for target practice.  The mausoleum was saved in July of that year, when an antiquities inspector arrived on the scene and prevented its destruction.  

The mausoleum sits quietly along the side Road 444 near the turnoff to Kibbutz El'ad…but in ancient times this scenic road was part of the famed Via Maris, the Way of the Sea.  This major north-south highway led from Egypt through the land of Israel into Syria. 

Our final stop of the day also lies along the ancient Via Maris:  Migdal Tsedek National Park, a beautiful and expansive stretch of land located in the western foothills of Samaria near Rosh HaAyin.

A Jewish community by the name of Migdal Afek was located here during the period of the Second Temple, but it was destroyed by the Romans in 67 CE during the Great Revolt.  The 12h century CE

saw the establishment of a fortress, called Mirabel (miraculous beauty), on the site.  Muslim conquerors gained control of the fortress in 1187, only to demolish it in 1191.  It was eventually rebuilt.  An Arab village sprung up around the new fortress in the 16th century, and by the 19th century the fortress had been renovated into a castle from which Tsadaq Jama'ini took control of the area.  Most of the excavated site is from the 19th century castle and the 12th century Roman fortress.

The fortress was a little…odd.  The main entryway appeared to be locked, but there were several other points of entry around the perimeter, ranging from fence-bent-back-by-trespassers to no-fence-at-all.  Regardless, the place was positively SWARMING with people.  Some were picnicking on the rocks surrounding the fortress.  Others were climbing haphazardly up the side of collapsing walls.  More still somehow managed to find their way up onto the roof.

I was raised not to jump off of a bridge just because everyone else was doing it, so, deciding that discretion is the better part of valor, we simply posed for poorly taken selfies on the perimeter and allowed ourselves a quick looksie inside via one of the non-barricaded entry points.  It was a quick enough glance to see that a)  The place is falling apart and downright dangerous in certain areas, and b)  There is at least some small effort at renovation/restoration in progress.  It would be interesting to return one day if/when the entire site is open for public viewing just to see what sort of progress has been made.  The most immediate concern, however, seems to be looting, as there is glaring evidence that stonework is being stolen from this largely unattended historical site.  

All told, it was an exciting day full of new sites that, frankly, we probably would not have seen had it not been for Aviv's recommendation.  All three locations were a bit off the beaten path.  I'm not sure we will ever find reason to go back to any of them (safe for Ramla, as a colleague lives there and we have an open invite for coffee sometime), but I'm thrilled to have had the opportunity to experience this tiny bit of history.  Not to mention the fact that all of that Roman history made for a nice segue into our honeymoon adventures...